Dave’S Top Tips

Disclaimer. All advice is given in goodwill with many years experience. We cannot guarantee however that your problems will be rectified so please, if in doubt call us before undertaking any works yourself. Regards, Dave Stevens- 01452 617394. Mobile 07790816203 -24 Hrs. E-mail: Dave@dstevens999.co.uk

If you’re not sure or have any doubt give us a call and we will happily investigate and put your mind at ease.

August 2010

Why we use lead

When any part of a roof meets a vertical surface or abutment as with an extension, roof window or a dividing wall between two terraced properties, the joint between the vertical surface and the roof covering needs to be sealed against leaks. Lead is usually used for this and when lead is worked and installed in this way it is called Lead Flashing.

Lead is used because it is a very durable material that has the ability to expand and contract with varying temperatures. This is essential on a roof that is quite obviously open to all elements.

Lead can also be worked into the most complicated of shapes. When lead is worked into different shapes to suit different roof applications, the process is called “Dressing”. Lead will not catch fire (but will melt at 327 degrees Celsius!).

As well as just providing flexible cover for joints in the roof, lead can be used as gutters and coverings for complete roofs.

Lead is extremely resistant to atmospheric corrosion, is a great soundproofer, protects against radiation and offers no dangers to the effects of lightening. The drawbacks of lead are that it is extremely heavy and quite expensive.

July 2010

White marks on brickwork

Efflorescence is one type of white deposit found on masonry. It is formed by water, within the construction material, reacting with the natural salts contained within them and the mortar. These salts dissolve in the water and are carried to, and deposited on the surface, by the natural evaporation that occurs by air coming into contact with the surface of the wall or floor.

Under normal circumstances, white, fluffy efflorescent salt occurs in relatively new buildings because the brickwork was not protected during construction and has become wet. This water will find its way out, through evaporation, and the salts can be brushed off and should not re-occur. However, if a lead flashing is damaged, or joints are missing and water is allowed to continuously enter the construction material, efflorescence will continue to form.

In this situation the cause must be found and eradicated. There is a salt neutraliser treatment for efflorescence, which can be used after the cause has been eliminated, but this will only be successful if;

No more water is passing through the wall. It can be applied to bare plaster, render, stone or brick, as it will not pass through paint. The other causes of white patches worth checking are a water leak – gutter or downpipe leaks, cistern overflow running, mains pipe weeping. Penetrating damp – e.g. via a blocked cavity or poor pointing, free Lime – the result of mortar or concrete curing, or from some clays used in brick making.

The most effective treatment for efflorescence and free lime staining on external surfaces is time. The natural weathering of the surface, if maintained, will remove it. For a build up of deposits on a wall, a good scrub with a dry, stiff brush will remove the worst, but make sure you follow it with a soft brush to move the salts away from the wall entirely. They will stay in the pores of the brickwork and dissolve again when it is wet.

June 2010

Painting a flush door

A flush door is a door without any additions. There are no panels or glazing windows just a straight forward flat faced door. Painting a flush door, although they are the most basic of doors, is one of the hardest job of all door painting as there can be no break when painting a side. If you stop for more than a minute or two the edge of the paint hardens and this can show through the painted finish as a ridge in the paintwork.

The flush door should be held open by using door wedges pushed in under the door after a piece of cardboard or old carpet off cut has been pushed under the door to protect the floor. Take off the door handles and smear a tiny bit of Vaseline on the hinges. This will stop any paint sticking to them and if you do get paint on the hinges it will allow you to wipe it off easily. Use the hose of the Hoover to suck out any sawdust from the lock or latch apertures.

Flush doors can be painted by using a roller and if you do this use a small (radiator) roller. Go over the rolled door with a dry brush to brush out any stipple effects the roller may have left. It is much better, especially when using gloss paint to use a roller with natural fibres such as sheepskin, mohair or wool.

May 2010

Low level to close coupled cisterns

How can I change my old low-level toilet to a new close-coupled toilet without having a gap behind the cistern? Well there are two possible answers. You either move all of the outgoing pipework in your bathroom wall or floor, or you make a simple box that goes on the wall behind the new close-coupled cistern. The new cistern is then fixed to this box, which can then be tiled or painted depending on what you like.

Even if the bathroom walls are tiled already, using strong construction adhesive you can stick the required timbers on the wall and then tack some plasterboard to them when the adhesive is dry. Make sure that you insert a timber cross member at the height of the screw holes which secure the cistern to the wall.

The reason a low level toilet does not often exchange easily for a close coupled unit is because 99% of the time a low level unit has a waste outlet which goes down into the floor. If the low level unit you have has a waste outlet which goes directly through the wall or turns at a right angle out of the back of the toilet to go right or left away from the toilet, then you should have no problem replacing it with a close coupled toilet. If your low level unit goes into the floor, the floor outlet is too far away from the wall to allow an easy exchange with a close-coupled unit. You can either dig up the floor and install another pipe, or continue with the box method described above.

April 2010

Changing a lock

There are a number of reasons why you may need to change the locks at home. Maybe you have lost your keys. The easiest lock to change is what is commonly called the Yale lock. This lock is actually called a night latch and the whole assembly does not need to be changed as the internal working latch, barrel or cylinder, can be changed independently of the rest of the mechanism. This allows you to use a new key that after all is the usual purpose of changing locks

At the back of the door you will see the lock box. This is held on by two screws, which are located above and below the actual door latch. Release these screws completely and put them somewhere safe. You will then be able to wiggle off the lock box.

When the lock box is removed you will see the locks back plate. This is the plate that holds the whole lot to the door. Sticking out of the back plate you will see a thin bar with grooves across its width. This is called the shank. Above the shank and to either side of it are two screw heads, which hold the barrel or cylinder to the back plate. Unscrew these and put them with the lock box screws. You should then be able to pull the barrel or cylinder out of the door.

Take a new barrel or cylinder and lay it alongside the one you have just taken out. Measure the length of the shank and using a strong pair of pliers and a hacksaw, cut the new shank to the same length as the old. The grooves that are already partially cut in the shank are there to help you.

When you have sawn a little way through the shank you should be able to bend it downwards to allow the shank to split in the correct place. Re assembling the lock is now a direct reversal of the procedure you used to dismantle it.

March 2010

All about jig saws

Jigsaws offer the ability to make curved and straight cuts in many materials but it has to be said that, if you have much straight cutting to do, use a circular saw rather than a jigsaw. Jigsaws are not really designed for straight cuts and its much better to stick to curves or intricate work with them. Buying a jigsaw is not the same as buying a good jigsaw! Jigsaws are very versatile tools but the wrong one can make life really hard. If ever there was a case for spending a lot of money on a tool a good jigsaw is where it should be spent.

With cheaper jigsaws the blade is held in by a clamp which is tightened by either a screwdriver or an allen key. The threads on the screw allow sideways movement, sideways movement in the blade means it is impossible to get a straight cut even when using a guide. Always buy a jigsaw with a blade lock and release system.

It’s also important that the sole plate on your jigsaw is rock solid. The sole plate is designed to be set at different angles and just like the blade holder; this movement can be exaggerated over time leading to poor control over the blade.

Cheaper jigsaws use a reciprocal cutting action for the blade. This means simply that the blade just goes up and down. Better jigsaws have a pendulum or orbital motion set into the motor which (on different settings) allows the blade to move backwards and forwards at an angle as well as up and down while you are cutting. This allows for a much more aggressive cut and at the same time, by moving the teeth away from the material, it allows any debris to fall clear of the teeth. This stops the saw from binding on the material and burning rather than cutting through it.

A jigsaw needs to be powerful to maintain a decent cut. A variable speed is essential as the difference between cutting timber as opposed to Perspex needs to be about 1000 strokes per minute. If you try and cut Perspex at the same speed as timber, it just melts.

February 2010

Loft Flooring

Flooring in the loft or attic must only be done to store items such as empty suitcases. The loft or attic area is not designed to carry loads heavier than this and the horizontal rafter sections in your loft are there purely to hold up the ceiling below. You will see that in any part of the loft where there is, for example, a water tank, the floor is reinforced and, in a lot of cases, the rafters are given additional support by hanging timbers attached to the pitched section of the trusses To put a floor in your loft is not a difficult job. It is made much easier by the production of special loft panel flooring. These panels are 18mm thick, 1.2m long and only 320mm wide. This means they are easy to get through the loft hatch. They come in packs of 3 or 5 usually and a pack of 3 is enough to cover a little over 1 square metre.

You must make sure you do not lay the floor right up to the edge (eaves) of the floor space as air must be allowed to circulate in the loft to avoid condensation. The loft panels have tongue and grooved sides and ends to allow you to slot one into another. This gives them strength. The long sides should be laid at 90 degrees to the joists and the ends should always meet on a joist. Floorboard joints should be staggered for greater strength.

It is very rare for the boards to meet naturally on a joist. Normally a board has to be cut so it finishes in the middle of the joist. This means of course that the tongue and groove need to be cut off both boards where they meet. This does not matter, as the joint will be very strong when it sits on the joist. Do not be tempted to join boards between joists as they will soon sag and cause a weak spot in the floor. Each screw should be countersunk and a pilot hole drilled. This makes fixing the boards easier and takes the heads of the screws below the level of the floor so when you slide suitcases along the floor they do not catch and tear on the screws.

January 2010

Noisy pipes (water hammer)

One frequently asked question is how to stop "water-hammer" when water has been drawn from a system. First it is important to know how it occurs. The entry of cold water into your tank and toilet cisterns is controlled by a "ball valve".

As hot water is drawn from your emersion, so cold water rushes in from the cold tank to replace it. When you flush the loo, the same thing happens in your cistern. The incoming flow is regulated by a float, which rises with the water to shut off the valve when the tank is full. When the mains cold rushes into the tank/cistern it causes ripples on the surface, the float bobs about, opening and closing the valve. It is this vibration within the valve and on the float arm which, when reverberating along the pipe, initiates the cause of water hammer.

The velocity of the water flowing through the valve means that when it is shut there is a build up of pressure behind the valve, as more water tries to push on through the pipe. This increase in pressure causes a pressure wave to form which travels back down the pipe. The wave then travels up and down the pipe until the energy is dissipated through friction; this is why there is a ‘hammering’ effect.

There are a few ways to ease this problem, but the first thing to make sure of is that wherever a pipe is up against a joist, rafter or other surface, it is fixed securely. The most effective professional way is to install an equilibrium valve instead of the standard valve in your tank or cistern. This valve works by allowing some water to get at the back of the piston washer to stop the arm jumping about. The noise reduction valve also is a further alternative, this allows incoming water to disperse below the water line and reduces the "waves", and it slows the vibration down but most often will not stop it. The noise reduction valve does also make a considerable difference to the noise your system makes when filling up.

December 09

Winter checks

Home maintenance can continue during the winter months but obviously most of it is going to be inside. Your home maintenance checks for autumn, summer and spring should have removed any likelihood of emergency outside repairs, so an indoor maintenance schedule is called for. Some of the work will be to ensure that the home is well insulated against heat loss and service bills are kept to a minimum.

Loft insulation needs to be checked and all pipe work and tanks should be insulated. Take special care with gatevalves and stopcocks. Make sure they can be turned in the event of an emergency. Burst pipes occur when the water expands when frozen so if there is a leak, thawing gently will reveal it sooner allowing you to mend it.

Make sure all drainpipes and gullies are clear of leaves, as the leaves will hold the water that will freeze and cause problems. Drain Tidies to keep out leaves and debris are available.

Use Patio Cleaner to keep moss and algae from paths and patios and always have a supply of Rock Salt handy to spread when things get slippery.

Dark winter evenings are very popular with burglars and installing outside lights is a very good idea. Passive Infra Red (PIR) lights will detect movement and switch themselves on, these can also provide a welcome for legitimate visitors

November 09

Freeing a stuck valve

A very common problem, and one that usually happens when you least want it to. Unfortunately there is no magic answer to freeing stuck valves but try the following:

Firstly remove any items from near the valve and apply oil to any part that looks as if it may move with a light coat of penetrating oil. Wipe off any oil remaining on the surfaceand allow it to work in. It will achieve nothing unless it can get to the threads. Most oil containers come with a very fine tube attachment, which enables you to get into the tightest of places. Sometimes tapping the body of the valve with a small hammer or other metallic object while you turn the valve will do the job sometimes warming it up with a hair dryer, or (carefully) with a blowtorch helps.

As a last resort try to attach a spanner or wrench to the handle of the valve and extend the handle of the wrench with something slipped over it to give you a little more leverage. While you are using this extra leverage, you must hold the valve body tightly in position to stop any of the joints to and from it twisting. Do not go at it hell for leather as sometimes, rarely, but sometimes, they do break. If none of the above works with all the pressure you dare, then you will have to call a plumber. Remember when you do get it free, open and close it once a month to keep it from "freezing" again. This applies to all valves especially the incoming mains stopcock.

October 09

Cracks In Walls – Are They Still Active?

There are two main types of cracks in walls:

1. Vertical Cracks –can be repaired using ‘stitches’ bonded into slots cut across the crack line at right angles, usually in the mortar bed joints. The so-called 'stitches' are usually stainless steel twisted rods and they are bonded into slots with special shrink compensated mortars. The remaining joint and the crack itself is then made good using a soft mortar mix incorporating a shrink proofing agent, to allow the inevitable small remaining movements to be accommodated. For repairs of this nature we only use Helifix fixings and bonding mortars.

2. Horizontal cracks – usually along the mortar joints

In both cases wall coverings, paint or render may obscure the extent of the cracking, so a Structural Engineer should always be consulted.

It has been known for houses to move suddenly and a few cracks to appear, then stay in that condition for donkey’s years. This may be due to a sudden shift in the ground below, or a void in the earth may have suddenly collapsed and filled with soil from above...Any number of geological events could trigger earth movement, but it is the continuation of the movement that should cause concern. Frequently these movements are associated with drainage pipe faults, water mains leaks and collapsing sewers., so always check these items first.

September 09

Cutting A Mitred Joint

Where two pieces of skirting board, picture or dado rail meet in the corner of a room, the chances are that the neat joint between the two sides is made using a mitre. This is an angled cut made to both pieces of timber. The angle at which each piece of timber is cut is half of the total angle involved. For example, most rooms are square, or very nearly in the case of most modern buildings! This gives each corner a value of 90 degrees. Both sides of the timber are therefore cut at 45 degrees so they meet to form the 90-degree turn.

The length of one side of the wall is measured and at each end a mitre is cut. Don't forget that mitres at each end will turn the opposite way. These mitres are very easily cut with a mitre saw. The best saw to use is a tenon saw as it has very fine teeth and will not "tear" the timber.

As with all timber joints, use an off-cut of timber to practice on first. It is worth buying an additional length of skirting for example to practice joining two mitres as, unless you are used to it, they can get out of line quite easily. When using a mitre saw, clamp the timber in tightly, even a little movement can lead to a bad joint.

If your joints are not perfect, and to start with it is unlikely that they will be, you can fill them with some flexible filler, or "decorators caulk" and, done properly, this will not show.

Angle finders can be bought at most Diy stores, but a simple way of checking you have exactly half of the room angle is to cut a piece of paper into the corner so both sides of the paper touch a wall each. Then fold the paper in half so that each of the sides, which were touching a wall, is now aligned with each other. The angle now formed can be marked onto the timber. When cut and joined, the two timbers should be like unfolding the paper again. Don't forget practice first.

August 09

Removing moss from a roof

I often get asked about the best way to remove moss from roofs and can it be stopped from re-growing. As you may know the majority of moss grows on the least sunny side of a roof, usually north or in tree shaded areas. This is due to this section of the roof taking longer to dry out because of less sunshine. Probably the only way to remove it is to get onto the roof and put in lots of elbow grease along with a non-toxic roof cleaner such as oxygen bleach. This should be applied ideally on a cool roof on an overcast day to help prevent any fumes. Once diluted the solution should be applied to the roof and left for several minutes to soak in. The next stage would be to scrub the roof in a downward direction with a stiff bristle brush and some form of scraper. Once clear the next step will be to clean out the guttering and it may be wise to block off the down pipes beforehand to prevent moss falling in and causing a blockage.

To help prevent or slow down moss re-growth a long strip of copper tape can be applied to the top of the roof near the ridgeline. This tape releases molecules of copper when it rains and creates a poisonous environment that the moss and algae dislike.

The biggest challenge above all else with this task is safety. You will be up high, with little protection, so a form of scaffold tower is a must. Expect to pay a fair sum of money to even hire one as they are usually hired on a weekly basis. Ladder safety must be considered also. Although removing the moss itself is a relatively straightforward task my advice to anyone would be to get it done by someone who has the correct access equipment and experience of heights.

July 09

Blocking a stain

If you have ever had a leak come through a painted ceiling or an old wall has been damp in the past, then you may well know that it does not matter how many coats of emulsion, or how many layers of wallpaper you put on, the stain will still come through.

A ceiling may have leaked in the past maybe even several years ago, the leak has been fixed everything seems to have dried out and the ceiling may even have been plastered over. But those old water stains will keep coming through until a barrier such as a stain blocker has been applied. Several specialist stain blockers are on the market, some you paint on and some you spray on and all are about as effective as each other. Another preference is to use oil based undercoat. Give the affected area two or three coats ensuring you overlap the stain. Allow to dry depending on manufacture recommendations then you should be able to paint or paper over the top with no more problems.

June 09

Bleeding a radiator

Sometimes air can enter a central heating system. This usually happens when new water is added from either the feed and expansion tank or simply when its topped up as a result of de furring or periodic maintenance. Air can also be created in a central heating system by the blades of the heating pump spinning round. This air can cause air locks and stop the hot water and ultimately heat from travelling around your central heating system. The usual remedy is to bleed your radiators or in some cases drain them. Beware though that bleeding and draining radiators can be a very awkward and messy task.

Radiators should not be bled or removed with the heating on. If there is any air in the system it will rise to the top of the radiator. On one side of the radiator there is a small square plug called a bleed valve. You will need a special key to fit this bleed valve and it can be bought from most diy outlets.

Turn the key anti-clockwise about a quarter of a turn and (if there is air in the radiator) you will hear a hissing sound as it escapes. As soon as the hissing stops a dribble of water will escape from the radiator. At this point close the key very firmly. The radiator is now bled.

If bleeding the radiators does not solve the problem you are having with your central heating it may be that you need to remove and flush out and drain the radiators.

Radiator sludge produced from rust and debris in the water supply can grind central heating systems to a standstill so once flushed treat the system with a suitable inhibitor.

May 09

Isolation Valves

Isolation valves, sometimes called shut off or service valves are used to cut off the water supply to anything in the home that is permanently connected to the water supply. This includes taps to basins, baths and sinks, toilets, showers, washing machines, dishwashers, outside taps and water tanks.

The most common type of isolation valve is called a Ballofix that is often abbreviated to Ballfix by plumbers. When doing any work at home it is a great idea to add isolating valves whenever the opportunity arrives. Turning off the mains water just to change a tap is a real headache and can lead to airlocks when the water is tuned back on.

Isolating, Ballofix or service valves are not difficult to fit. Service, or isolation valves come with either a screw to pen and close them with, or a small lever. The screw is to make sure they cannot be turned on or off accidentally but it does require the use of a screwdriver so isolation valves fitted to appliances like washing machines and dishwashers tend to be supplied with a small lever to shut them off.

Service, isolation and Ballofix valves also come in right-angled form, which allows you to fit them to the top of a pipe running along, or up the wall so that the opening for hose connection is facing out into the room. The simplest kind of isolation valve is a speed fit valve that simply pushes onto the pipe without the need for copper compression, or other plumbing fittings.

It is also possible to buy flexible lengths of pipe, called flexible hoses, to connect taps to the hot and cold water supply, which include an isolation valve in their length. This is an incredibly useful piece of equipment for the DIY enthusiast especially as it makes tap connection so easy. These flexible hose are also available in Speed fit.

April 09

How to deal with an air lock in your water pipes

Option 1. Find a faucet with mains water pressure and attach a pipe over the end of the tap and secure with a clip such as a jubilee clip or similar. The average garden hose wont do as the diameter of the pipe bore will usually be too small. You may need to invest in a length of hose between 20 or 30mm bore diameter depending on the size of tap you are attaching to. Next attach the other end of the hose in the same manner to a tap that is not flowing in the expected manner you are normally used too. (Little or no flow)

Now fully open the tap with the low or no flow. Then gradually open the mains pressure tap (have an assistant at hand to check hoses don’t blow off at other end of hose if required) As you open the mains pressure tap you will force water backwards through the pipe work and push any air out of the system and fill the pipe work with water and not air (this may take a minute or so, Trial and error is all I can say).

You then need to turn off the mains pressure tap followed by the tap with low pressure. Remove the hose from both taps and open up the low-pressure tap to see if the expected flow has returned. You may find you have to make several attempts to get a satisfactory result, but once the water starts to flow at a steady rate then any air left within the system will gradually soon be purged leaving you with the flow rate you expected.

Option 2. An automatic air bleed valve may be fitted to automatically discharge air from the pipe work or the pipe work may be re- routed so as to prevent air blocks happening. This however is more of a specialist undertaking and not really recommended for the diy person and not within the scope of this publication. We are however happy to receive calls to try and sort out your personal plumbing issues so feel free to contact us for a free no obligation survey.

March 09

Replacing an immersion heater

Replacing an immersion heater may be a plumber’s job or it may be an electrician’s job. One thing is for sure though, if the elements on your immersion heater go, the chances are that the whole house will be in darkness as the circuits cut out. Immersion heaters are in the water all the time, expanding and contracting with the heat and every now and again the protective covering will give way allowing a little water in. Water and electricity do not mix and a short circuit quickly follows. As soon as the lights go out it is natural to call for an electrician. Then the electrician comes, traces the fault and says "Its a plumbers job!” Sometimes your water just takes forever to heat up and it could be time to replace your immersion heater because it is scaled up. As with anything else to do with electrics, turn all the power off first and remove the fuse in the switch connecting the immersion heater to the mains.

As the hot water in a hot water system rises to the top of the cylinder you should drain down the tank. You must first turn off any boiler that is supplying hot water to the tank then stop any more cold water entering the tank. The cold water enters the tank at the bottom and rises as it is heated, to be drawn off from the top of the tank. Turn off the gate valve that stops cold water entering the tank. You then need to drain the tank down using the drain plug at the bottom by the cold inlet. Once the tank is empty, disconnect all of the wiring from the heater. Then using an immersion spanner undo the nut.

You may need to work hard as they very often get stuck firm. Heater elements come in several lengths. Measure the one you take out and replace it with the same length fitting. Wrap some PTFE tape around the thread of the new fitting and tighten securely. Close all the taps you opened earlier, tighten any drain plugs and refill the system with water. Wire up the thermostat and set it to the temperature you want. Replace the cover and all is well. If in doubt call me (see main ad below) and we will sort it out for you.

February 09

Explore some possibilities

Just a thought for this coming year for you to maybe consider especially if you were thinking of moving.

We are all aware of the current climate, what with house prices dropping and the credit crunch along with any other bad news our beloved rulers wish to lay upon us. So why not take a bit of time to think about some home improvements on a slightly larger scale than you would normally. Before jumping in to buy another home why not look at the possibilities within your four walls. Maybe a second bathroom or en-suite or even a small utility room is something that grabs your fancy, maybe that’s why your thinking of moving, to have one or more of the above. So take a deep breath and step back and look at what room you have spare that could be put to better use. Don’t be put off with things like drainage and soil pipe issues; nowadays there is a wealth of waste pumping and macerator systems available.

The cost of moving house will probably cover the cost of all but the most glamorous of projects not to mention the upheaval you will be faced with doing all that packing etc, and for some unfortunates the distress of getting let down at the last minute. Not only will you be gaining that extra something by investing within your walls but you will also most certainly be adding value to your property. There are loads of space saving goods out on the market today and you may actually not need as much room as you would initially think. Have a think, and maybe do some sketches, we will be happy to do the rest, see main ad below for number. Have a good year.

January 09

Fuses and MCBs

Please remember when attempting any electrical installations at home that you are obliged to get the completed job tested by a fully qualified electrician. An MCB is a form of fuse (protective device) which overcomes the traditional problem associated with fuses in so much as when one blows it does not need to be replaced as a fuse does. MCB's operate when they sense an overload, or over current, and become an automatic switch, turning off, or tripping, the MCB when it detects such an overload. An RCD is a similar protective device that is different in two ways. Firstly it is connected to both the live and neutral wires in the consumer unit making it a double pole switch, whereas the MCB is only connected to the live side of the circuit. Secondly, rather than just detecting an overload of current, it detects the fault which causes the overload.

Many consumer units these days are split load consumer units. And now with the new 17th edition regulations both sides of the unit are protected by there own RCD. Each individual circuit, of whatever kind, is protected by an MCB. If you wanted to protect every circuit against overload and faults, you can install an RCBO, which is a residual circuit breaker with over current protection. This is a combined MCB and RCD. For total safety outdoors if you are unsure about circuits and the like, you can fit an RCD plug to your lawnmower or other outdoor equipment. Even easier is the RCD socket that simply plugs into a normal socket and provides you with all the protection you could need outdoors.

Other forms of fuse are re-wireable fuses and cartridge fuses. Cartridge fuses are simply fuse wire contained in an enclosed glass or ceramic tube (such as the fuse in a plug) and re-wireable fuses (slowly becoming obsolete as wiring regulations are upgraded) which are simply two terminals connected by a length of accessible fuse wire of differing amperage rating.

December 08

How to unblock sinks and basins

Unblocking toilets etc can be a relatively easy, but still dirty job. The key here, as with 99% of jobs in the building and DIY world, is to have the right tools. It is also necessary to wear a very good pair of rubber gloves. We will not go into the diseases toilets and waste pipes can carry, but trust us, you do not want any of them! A sink, bath, basin and shower tray can be unblocked in a few ways. An ordinary plunger may be used by placing it over the plughole and pushing up and down on the handle. This creates a force in both directions, compression as you push down and suction as you release. The idea here is that the blockage is dislodged and breaks up allowing it to flow down the drain.

For an easier way to unblock sinks etc, you can now use what is known as a power plunger. This tool is simply "pumped up" by pumping the handle at the end and placed over the plughole. By pressing the trigger all the compressed air is released, forcing the blockage down the pipe or breaking it into bits.

Another option is the water injector. Put some water in the sink, basin, bath or shower tray and stand the pump in it. Pull up on the handle to fill it with water. Then place it over the plughole and push down hard, then pull up again etc. The water is pushed at great force through the blockage, and then by sucking up again, the forces explained in the first example with the plunger are put into operation. If your blockage is within a couple of meters of the plughole, this little beast will clear it.

Finally, for sinks, basins, baths and showers anyway, there is the corkscrew cable. The flexible wire is pushed into the drainpipe, wiggled about to break up the blockage, and wound back in. Very simple, very effective.

November 08

Boxing a boiler

Boxing in or "housing" a central heating boiler can be done using kitchen units to match your existing kitchen. Boilers can be unsightly,and hidden away; the kitchen can look a great deal better. It is necessary however to make sure of a couple of things when boxing in a boiler:
1: The boiler itself can be opened fully for servicing and repairs
2: There is at least 50mm of air gap all round the boiler and the boxing allows plenty of ventilation to allow a fresh air flow all round the boiler.

Both of the above can be achieved by using kitchen units in a great many cases.

Firstly measure the boiler and choose a unit that will fit round and meet the conditions described above. Put this unit together and place it somewhere near the boiler to see what adaptations you need to make to get it over the boiler. There will be cuts round pipes and possibly timers etc. There will also be cut outs required to allow for the air to circulate. You will, almost always need a jigsaw to cut the awkward shapes. Some units have additional side panels, which can be used to cover gaps between the unit and the wall. These gaps can also be covered with lengths of architrave or other timber mouldings. As the back will almost certainly need to be removed, the unit can be fitted to the wall using angle brackets.

These can be bought from most DIY shops. Doors are fitted as usual and the hinges adjusted in the usual manner. You may also need to batten the walls to fit the unit and also be very wary of any hidden pipes or cables buried within the wall itself.

October 08

Rotten floorboards, dry rot and stale air.

Most properties with wooden floors on the ground floor will have a void underneath. Air in this void can get stale and humid. Humid air carries a great deal of moisture, which, at night when the heating is off, can condense on the cooler surface of the floor joists or boards. This condensation can cause the boards and joists to rot from the underside. This rot can eventually cause the joists to become soft at the bearing ends, usually in or on the support walls. Check with a screwdriver to see if your joists are rotting – early treatment with Boron based preservatives can save the timber, but once the decay has set in new timbers need to be fitted. If the majority of a joist is sound it is possible to fit Joist Repair Plates to the missing bearing ends or even splice on new parts using a Timber-Resin Splice system.

As with all condensation related problems the only treatment is ventilation and all properties with hollow floors have airbricks built into the wall to allow a free flowing passage of air. The down side of these airbricks is that the air under the floor can produce a bit of a draught up through the gaps in the floorboards. Many properties, because the owners knew no better, have had the airbricks blocked up or even removed. Some have had some blocked up on one side of the house and the other side has been left open.

It is important that these airbricks are opened up again. They must be all round the house to allow the air to flow back and forth. Airbricks can be inserted easily enough. The first stage is to remove a section of wall large enough to insert one. No lintel is necessary over an airbrick, having cut a hole through the wall. Simply push the sleeve through the wall and then lay your airbrick in the hole and re-point. Sounds easy but this kind of job can be a pain and you need to get the spacing correct, Usually about every 1800mm is standard. When done correctly you will gain the free flow of air required to prevent problems to your flooring.

September 08

How to remove hardened grout from wall and floor tiles

Grout, either wall or floor tile, dries very quickly and can be very frustrating. Don't despair! Use warm water and wipe it over the surface of the wall tiles with a sponge. Then using some fine wire wool rub gently over the grout, which will begin to dissolve and rub off at the same time. Wipe over with a damp cloth and leave to dry. Then polish with a dry cloth.

The same method will apply to floor, or quarry tiles but warm water will probably not be enough to dissolve the cement-based adhesives used for these tiles. A patio, or brick cleaner will do the trick but you will need to wear rubber gloves and eye protection, as these cleaners are acid based. Also try a tiny drop in an out of the way corner, lest the cleaner be too strong and etch the tiles. Follow rinsing instructions etc carefully.

Often when you have left grout too long the actual joints will look scarred and untidy. They can be raked out a little and re-pointed by using a grout rake. Make sure to wear kneepads for floors and safety goggles. Its not the most enjoyable job in the world but the end result usually makes it worthwhile.

August 08

Leaking baths and shower tray.

The most common reason for leakages behind baths and shower trays is movement in the fitting itself (along with obvious broken tiles etc) and the first thing to check is that your fitting is secure…There should be an absolute minimum of movement in either fitting and with a shower tray it is advisable to fit a resin, rather than a plastic, one…Baths can be secured, while in place, by removing the bath panel and, (if it is a steel bath) securing through the under-hanging bath lip to the wall after making sure the feet are firmly screwed to the base and all connections on the frame are firm. If the bath is plastic, you will need to make up some timber “bearers” (2inch x 1inch treated timber). Cut the timber to lengths of 400mm and plug and screw them firmly under the edge of the bath, between the main body of the bath and the end walls. There is just room to get in at either end but it is a struggle!! Its is also sensible to apply a liberal amount of very strong construction adhesive to the back of each bearer…A bearer can be placed under the edge of the bath at both ends as well. You will not be able to drill, plug and screw these as there is no room, but if you use the adhesive above and find a way of when the bath is secure it will no doubt need re-sealing. It rarely works for long to keep placing new sealant over the old. Strip off the old adhesive using a sealant remover. This comes in a tube, as does the sealant, and is applied by mastic gun. When you have removed the sealant, use a rag dipped in solvent thinners or white spirit to wipe all surfaces clean. (Wear gloves for this operation and open the windows to allow the vapour to disperse) This will de-grease the top of the bath or shower tray and also the tiles. Leave to dry for a few hours and then apply a high modulas sealant. You can now be sure of good adhesion and hopefully a trouble free joint.

It is also worth checking the grout to your tiles at this point. The smallest pinhole in the grout will suck water in behind the tiles, where it will filter through the adhesive and onto the floor below the bath. This kind of leak is not even visible until it has done a fair bit of damage…if you find any grout that is suspect; use a grout rake to rake off the top few mm. You can then mix and apply a new filling and be sure the joints are full.

July 08

How to stop the smell and gurgling from your sink or basin.

A very popular question is " How can I stop my basin/shower gurgling when I pull the plug out?" To solve this problem it’s a good idea to know what causes the problem.

The water leaves the basin and begins its run into the trap underneath. This trap has water in it, which stops smells coming back up through the pipes into the room through the plughole. When the water from the basin passes through the trap, it begins its run to the main waste pipe and out into the external manholes and main sewers. Some of this journey is made through (inside the building) vertical pipes and sometimes through pipes that have rather more than the 1 in 40 slope, which is recommended for foul water drainage. This encourages the water to run very quickly and sometimes this causes a vacuum behind the flow. This vacuum sucks at the water that remains in the trap. Most often this "sucking" causes the water in the trap to bubble and gurgle - hence the gurgling noise. Sometimes the water is sucked out of the trap completely and this is when foul gasses can get back into the room. Fitting an air inlet valve is easy. The pipe from the trap can be cut (as near to the trap as possible) and a Tee piece inserted. The air inlet valve is then fixed to the top of a vertical length of pipe from the Tee piece.

When the valve is fitted the water runs away as before but instead of the vacuum sucking water from the trap it just sucks air which is admitted through the valves. This allows the water to run away noiselessly from basin, bath and shower hence little or no disturbance to the water in the trap and no foul smells coming back through the plughole.

June 08

How to grout wall and floor tiles

Grouting wall and floor tiles can be one of the easiest jobs, or one of the most difficult. The difference? Timing and confidence. Grouting tiles is done in the same way whether they are floor tiles, wall tiles, ceramic tiles, quarry tiles and so on. The grout needs to get into the joints and to fill them thoroughly. One of the major factors in grouting wall and floor tiles involves laying the tiles in the first place. If you do not allow wide enough joints between the tiles the grout will not get to the bottom of the joint. This makes it very weak and will soon allow water to enter. For wall tiles we recommend joints of 3mm and for floor tiles, 5mm. When laying the tiles it is also important that the adhesive is not allowed to squeeze up too far into the joint, as it’s almost impossible to chip it out later.

Mixing the grout is also very important. We always use grout powder that can then be mixed to any consistency rather than a pre-mixed grout, the hardest of all is the ready mixed adhesive and grout in the same tub. Powder grout mixes easily and can be done by hand simply by using a small container and a trowel. You need two clean buckets for grouting tiles. One for mixing in and the other for rinsing sponges in. (It is important that the powder is added to the water and not the other way round. It makes the mixing process a great deal easier) Slowly tip the powder into the water while stirring the mix. The finished grout should be a creamy consistency much like thick custard (without the lumps!). If there are any lumps they can block a joint and stop mixed grout filling the joint properly.

Once the grout is mixed simply trowel a dollop onto the floor. Don’t be scared, there will be a mess but it is easy to clean up. Using a grout float push the grout round the joints making sure they are full. Scrape up as much grout from the tiles as you can so as not to waste too much. As you are grouting keep an eye on the waste grout on the tiles you have done and watch it drying out. This is where the timing comes in. Using a clean, damp sponge, you should be able to wipe over the tile, and joint to clean off the surplus. The grout should be hard enough to require a fairly strong rubbing action. If it is not hard enough the sponge will "drag" the grout out of the joints and if it is too hard you will need to work very hard indeed! When the whole surface is wiped over, leave it to dry for a while. It looks spotless when you finish with the sponge but as it dries you will see the residue forming on the surface. Wash this off again, rinsing the sponge thoroughly as often as you can. After two or three washes leave to dry properly and you will be left with a fine "dust" on the surface of the tiles. This can be wiped off with a dry cloth and your floor will be finished.

May 08

Balancing Central Heating Radiators

Some radiators sometimes get hotter than others. This can mean your central heating system is not balanced correctly. Radiators can vary in temperature because of the distance they are away from the boiler or pump and if the system is not balanced correctly the radiators nearest the source may get hotter than those furthest away.

To be absolutely sure of even temperature distribution around the home you can buy or sometimes hire radiator thermometers which clip onto the radiators pipes and measure the difference in temperature between them Radiator thermometers can be bought from some plumber’s merchants and have clamps, or springs attached to enable them to be clipped to the radiator valve pipes. They are not widely used in the trade and you may have to make do with a digital thermometer. Take the measurement at the flow side (wheelhead) first, then at the Lockshield and adjust accordingly using the instructions below.

To balance your central heating system, turn off the heating and allow all radiators to cool down. Open both of the valves on all of the radiators and turn on the heating. You may need some help but you now need to go to each radiator and check the order in which they heat up. Note the order down. There are two valves on all radiators. One, which is regularly used to turn the radiator on and off and one, which is covered by a domed cap. The capped one is called a Lockshield valve the other is a wheelhead or control valve. You need to use grips of some kind to pull of the plastic cap from the Lockshield valve. Some Lockshield valves have a screw through the cap that must be removed before the cap can be pulled off.

Repeat the procedure above, letting everything cool down and start over again. This time as soon as you fire up the heating boiler, go to the first radiator on the system and fit the thermometers to the pipes on both valves. Turn off the Lockshield valve completely and then turn it on again slowly until the difference between the two thermometers is about 11 degrees C. Continue round the system doing the same thing. The Lockshield valve will need opening a little further on each radiator until, possibly, it is fully open on the last radiator.

If there are radiators on the system that will not balance properly they may need to be removed and flushed out or the system may need to be drained down and cleaned. If in doubt call me (see main advert for number) and I will do the investigating for you.

April 08

How to solder a pipe joint

There are two types of fitting to make a soldered pipe joint, one which comes with a ring of solder already inside each end of the fitting, called a Yorkshire fitting, and the other, an end feed fitting. Soldered joints make a neat, tidy job but require a little practice and total cleanliness to "make" properly. If in doubt, compression joints, although bulkier, are easier to manage for the DIY'er

First clean both the pipe and the fitting, inside and out, with wire wool until it is bright and shiny. You will then need to apply a liberal amount of flux to both the pipe and the fitting. Flux is a paste, which when activated by heat, removes oxides from the surface of the metal promoting fusion between the surfaces. Use a small, clean brush to apply the flux. Then "dry fit" as much of the pipe work together as you can, place all the pieces together where you want them and remember, with Yorkshire fittings you cannot just heat one end of the joint. The heat will travel to the other end and melt the solder ring,. This will make it impossible to connect to later on.

Using a lead free wire solder and a protection mat, heat the joint with a blow lamp until, with a Yorkshire fitting, you can see bright ring of solder appearing between the fitting and the pipe. With an end feed fitting, touch the solder stick to the joint until it melts on contact. Then run the wire round the joint for as much of it as you can get to. The solder will melt at approximately 180 degrees c, so it gets pretty hot! Remove the heat when the solder starts to melt. The application of solder is still a good idea with Yorkshire fittings to be absolutely sure of a good joint. Make sure you have a damp rag handy, and after a few seconds, to allow the solder to set, carefully wipe the joint round. This will cool it and clean it. And finally if in doubt then please call and we can sort your soldered pipes for you.

March 08

Replacing a damaged socket outlet

Before working on any electrical circuit isolate the supply by switching off the main switch and remove the fuse to the circuit that you are working on, If it is a circuit breaker switch off the main fuse and circuit breaker and remove the wires from the top of the circuit breaker. Place a sign saying that you are working on the circuits on the consumer unit, and then nobody will restore the power whilst you are working on it. If you are not 100% certain what you are doing call a qualified electrician. Building regulations are changing all the time and modifying your home electrics could be against new rules and could invalidate your home insurance, if in doubt check first! A damaged socket can be dangerous and can cause fires or serious injury or even death. If you have a socket that is damaged then it is essential that you do not use it until the socket has been replaced.

Now go to the consumer unit or fuse box and isolate the circuit, either by removing the fuse or switching off the circuit breaker. Ensure that no one else can restore the power! Remove the two retaining screws for the front of the socket and gently pull the socket forwards and you will see the wires are connected in the respective terminals. Check your new socket, as it is quite likely that the terminals will be in different positions. Undo the screws with a suitable screwdriver by turning them anti-clockwise. Remove the socket and check the positions of the terminals on the new socket. Reconnect the wires into the correct terminals and tighten the terminal screws by turning the screwdriver clockwise. The screws need to be tight but Do not over tighten the screws! Once the terminal screws are tight grab the wires between your finger and thumb and try and pull them out, if you can the screws are not tight enough and you should re-tighten them. Check that all wires are firmly in place before pushing the socket back into position. Ensure that none of the wires will become trapped when replacing the socket screws. Replace the two socket screws and again these need to be tight, but not too tight or you will crack the socket. Restore the power to the socket circuit and test the socket with a socket tester.

Please before doing any investigation on electrical circuits ensure ALL the power is off and do not underestimate the complexity of some lighting circuits. If in doubt call me (see main advert for number) and I will do the investigating for you.

February 08

So why do my bulbs keep blowing?

Relax!!! This problem does not mean you have a major wiring fault. Fuses and MCB’s will pick up a wiring fault in your circuit long before it gets to the bulb. There are a few reasons bulbs can blow, the major one being cheaper bulbs. The elements in cheap bulbs are much thinner and any surge of power, however slight, simply breaks them. Always go for expensive light bulbs, its cheaper in the long run. A loose connection in the lamp holder can also cause bulbs to blow. This is because the circuit is not completed as tightly as it could be and the electricity may have cause to "arc" or jump across the contact, rather than simply flowing through it. When this happens it produces more heat in the fitting than is expected or catered for by the bulb, and the bulb can blow. The same can happen if the spring-loaded connection in the bulb holder is slightly loose. This will cause electricity to arc across the contact, cause too much heat and blow the bulb. This can very often be diagnosed by looking at the contact on the bottom of the bulb to see if it is pitted. Arcing electricity effectively melts the metal it is arcing onto (This is how arc welding works) so if the bulb contact is being subjected to arcing, tiny little indentations occur, called pitting. It is sometimes possible, if the live connection in your light switch is a little loose, for this to happen here also. Heat will be generated and it is possible, though very remote, for the bulb to blow as a result of this.

When a bulb blows, 99% of the time the fuse for the lighting circuit will blow or trip also. This makes the problem seem rather bigger than it actually is. The reason for a blowing lamp tripping an MCB is that the lamp element gets thinner during its life to the point where it breaks at the thinnest point; this point will melt just before failure. The resistance of the overheating element will momentarily be very low and a current surge is caused, this is picked up by MCB's but generally not fuses. So, three things to look into if your bulbs keep blowing. Your bulb supplier, The wire connections inside your bulb holder, and if the spring loaded connectors are working properly inside the bulb holder. As a last resort you can also check the tightness of the connections in your switch.

Please before doing any investigation on electrical circuits ensure ALL the power is off and do not underestimate the complexity of some lighting circuits. If in doubt call me (see main advert for number) and I will do the investigating for you.

January 08

This month we will try to stop the creaking in the night as you tip toe downstairs for a midnight snack.

Fixing loose or squeaky floorboards

Noisy floorboards:

Fixing noisy floorboards is a relatively simple diy job. There are several ways of curing the problem. Brush chalk or talcum between tight-fitting boards that are rubbing against each other, or, Tighten loose boards by using 50mm screws instead of nails to grip the boards securely. Pre-drill the boards to stop the wood splitting. Remember though that there may be cables or pipes below, so lift the board first to check this out. Generally speaking, services should be routed along the centre of floorboards, but this not always the case.

Floorboards with no support:

If a joist doesn’t support a board end, take up the board and screw a 25x50mm batten to the side of the joist. Lay the board back on top of the batten and fix with screws. You may come across a board that has been cut between two joists with the result that nothing is supporting the join. In this case, you can lift the offending boards and fit a length of 2x2 timber between adjacent boards to provide a bridge. Insert the timber and hold in place with a cramp while you screw the adjacent board to it. You will then have something to fix the loose end to with screws.

December 07

This Month we will look into types of taps and how to change them.

Types of tap:

The majority of washbasins are fitted with individual taps for hot and cold water. Most modern taps have shrouded heads of metal or plastic. Older style taps, with the cross bar at the top are called Capstan Head taps. A lever head tap turns the water on and off with the shortest push of the lever and is very useful for those with a disability or simply turning the tap when your hands are full. Wall mounted individual taps are called bib taps and taps fixed to the basin itself are called pillar taps.

Mixer Taps:

In a mixer tap both hot and cold water enter the tap and are mixed in it by adjusting the tap handles. A single lever mixer does exactly the same job using just one handle, which controls both the flow rate and the temperature. Washbasin mixer taps frequently incorporate a pop up waste plug. A series of interlinked rods, operated by a button on the centre of the mixer, open and close the waste plug in the basin. Normally the body of the tap, which connects the valve and spout, rests on the upper surface of the basin, the tails protrude through holes in the basin to meet the supply pipes. A two hole mixer has tails spaced 100mm apart, a three hole mixer appears to have separate valves and spout but they are linked by a tube below the basin.

Replacing old taps:

When replacing old taps its natural and sensible to use the existing plumbing wherever possible but connecting old rusted fittings can be hard and sometimes its better to hack-saw back to clean copper tube and start from there. Make sure you turn off the water first. Applying penetrating oil to rusted or old nuts can work especially, if you can get access, to tap connectors. A normal spanner is difficult to use when changing taps but a special basin spanner can be bought from most diy outlets. Having disconnected the pipework pull the tap connectors away from the tap and undo any backing nuts under the basin or bath. Drop in the new taps and replace the back washer making sure the tap is central to the hole in the basin or bath. Re-connect the tap connector making sure you replace the fibre or rubber washer with a new one, which is found inside the nut in the tap connector. All that’s left is to turn the water back on and check for leaks. I always recommend checking for leaks within a 24-hour period to allow for settling and different pressures from the pumping station.

November 07

Electricity and Safety in your home

It still surprises me on my rounds to see so many old fuse boards distributing power to modernised properties. You know the type! The ones where you have to replace the little bit of fuse wire every time something goes pop. Just because it’s hidden under the stairs or in a cupboard out of site you think it doesn’t matter. But that little box is the only thing protecting all your modern TV’s, appliances etc, Not to mention the wiring within the walls or even your whole house and most importantly YOU from dangerous voltages and the risk of fire. Lucky for us, technology has made things better and safer for all. With the new modern fuse board now coming with an array of differing circuit breakers that are much more sensitive to prospective faults along with doing away with the need to change bits of fuse wire. (Especially a problem in the dark) Now you need only to flick a switch.

Most importantly new fuse boards now always come with an RCD. (Residual current device) An RCD must be fitted by law before any alterations to your wiring can be made with few exceptions. So if you want a new or replacement shower for example, forget it unless you have an rcd fitted to give the necessary protection or maybe upgrade the whole board as a matter of course to give complete protection to you and your property.

So what do they do? Well to keep it basic, inside the rcd there are several coil windings that detect the passing of current going thru the live conductor and back again thru the neutral conductor. When everything is normal you basically get the same feedback through both conductors. If a fault occurs then one of the conductors will be out of balance with the other. The rcd senses this imbalance and within a few milliseconds switches the power off to prevent electrocution or further damage. Once the offending imbalance has been found and rectified, be it either a faulty kettle, wiring or maybe you just drilled a hole in the wall and have nicked a cable etc. The rcd can then be reset with the flick of a switch to restore power and it will sit there happily protecting you monitoring for any further problems. These things save lives and properties time and time again. So before you go and spend loads of money on your next bathroom or kitchen etc, have a peep in that cupboard under the stairs to see what sort of fuse board you have and think – can this board save my life?